Monday 28 November 2011

Triumph over tiny vintage sizes today!

I know Charity shopping, I say what I want and I find it usually in the window, or in the shop; where a handy shaft of sunlight or light bulb will illuminate it for me so I don't miss it! My wardrobe consists of so much vintage I've actually thought about starting a stall. I actually studied pattern cutting at London College of Fashion and know my measurements in inches. That last bit is important so I'll say it again, I know my measurements in inches. You need to know this when you buy vintage so you can know what will fit.

When buying vintage you have to factor in the fact that sizing for women was actually standardised untill about the mid 198o's by these measurements. Waist 28 "= size 10, 30" = 12, 32" = 14 and 34" = 16 and 36"= 18. The hip size would be 6" bigger than the waist and so the bust 4". Also many figures were pulled into fit that hourglass using the joys of girdles, corsets, long line bra's etc.

About the mid 1980's many stores changed their sizing lasts to catch up with the changing bodies of their customers, M&S was one of the first to change the measurements in the UK. Also the fact that we didn't wear shape wear any more also meant figures became more natural so waists weren't so tiny. This meant that the size measurements had to be moved, 28" became the size 8 and the 30" = a size 10 etc. This change was not standard for all stores and some still use that 1940's sizing to ensure not everyone can shop there, naming no names here as that would be libel.

Then there is the story of how lycra/elastaine which again happened in the 1980's changed fashion, styles beame more relaxed so no more tailoring as you could cut a general shape and it would streatch to fit. The general rule is 1% elastaine gives you about an extra 1 inch stretch of fit.

Sometimes a girl has to buy that size 16 and be cool with it, or just wear the correct underwear for the clothing, (I love a good waspie under a pencil skirt and shirt, I also love Spanx) we don't want US vanity sizes over here now do we?

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